About two hours east of Medellín, a massive granite monolith rises 200 meters from the shore of a bright blue reservoir. This is El Peñón de Guatapé (also called La Piedra del Peñol), one of Colombia's most iconic landmarks. Climb the 740 steps zigzagging up its side and you're rewarded with a 360-degree panorama of emerald islands dotting an impossibly blue lake—a view so stunning it's hard to believe it's real.
The Giant Rock
The Peñol rock is a geological anomaly—a massive inselberg (isolated rock formation) composed of quartz, feldspar, and mica that formed in the earth's crust millions of years ago. The indigenous Tahamíes people considered it sacred. When Spanish colonizers arrived, they tried (and failed) to scale it. Only in 1954 did locals finally reach the top, driving wooden planks into a vertical crack.
Today, concrete steps with metal railings wind through that same crack. The climb takes 20-30 minutes depending on your fitness level and takes you through narrow passages with rock walls on either side before emerging at the top for the magnificent view. At the summit, you'll find souvenir shops, snacks, and viewpoints—commercialized, but the panorama justifies any kitsch.
The "GI" Controversy
Look closely at the rock's face and you'll see giant letters: "GI" on one side. This is the beginning of "GUATAPÉ"—an attempt by that town to claim the rock. But nearby El Peñol intervened after just two letters were painted, asserting their own claim. The dispute was never resolved, leaving the rock forever marked with its unfinished sign. Both towns now benefit from tourism.
The Town of Guatapé
After climbing the rock, most visitors head to Guatapé town, about 15 minutes away. This lakeside village is famous for its zócalos—colorful, three-dimensional baseboards decorating nearly every building. Each house features unique hand-painted designs depicting local life: farmers, animals, fruits, coffee, religious scenes.
The tradition began in the 1920s and has made Guatapé one of Colombia's most photogenic towns. Wander the cobblestone streets with your camera ready. The main plaza, waterfront malecón, and church are particularly picturesque. The town is small enough to explore in an hour or two, leaving time for lunch overlooking the lake.
The Reservoir's Hidden History
The stunning blue lake isn't natural—it's a reservoir created in the 1970s to generate hydroelectric power for Medellín. When the dam flooded the valley, several towns were submerged entirely. Approximately 5,000 people were displaced. The "islands" visible from the rock are actually former hilltops.
On clear days, you can sometimes see the old town's church steeple emerging from low water. For residents who lost their ancestral homes, the beautiful reservoir carries a complex legacy. The electricity generated powers much of Antioquia region—but at a cost remembered by displaced families.
Visiting Practicalities
- From Medellín: 2-hour bus from Terminal del Norte (about 15,000 COP). Buses leave every 30 minutes. Tours also available.
- Rock entrance: Around 25,000 COP ($6 USD). Opens 8am, arrive early to avoid crowds.
- Best timing: Weekday mornings. Weekends and holidays are extremely crowded.
- On the water: Boat tours around the reservoir islands available from Guatapé malecón.
- Full experience: Climb rock, boat tour, lunch and explore town—makes a full day.
📸 Photography Tips
Golden hour light on the reservoir is magical. Consider staying overnight for sunrise shots. The view from the top includes countless islands—bring a telephoto lens. In town, morning light best illuminates the colorful zócalos without harsh shadows.
Guatapé and El Peñol together offer perhaps Colombia's most Instagram-worthy day trip: a physical challenge with a spectacular payoff, followed by wandering one of the country's most charming and colorful towns. It's touristy because it deserves to be.