In 2002, Comuna 13 was a war zone. Guerrilla groups, paramilitaries, and gangs fought for control of this hillside neighborhood that served as a strategic corridor for drug trafficking and weapons smuggling. Military Operation Orion that year killed hundreds and displaced thousands. Today, this same neighborhood receives over 4,000 tourists daily, drawn by vibrant street art, innovative infrastructure, and one of the most powerful stories of community resilience you'll find anywhere.
A History Forged in Struggle
Comuna 13 was built by internal migrants fleeing violence elsewhere in Colombia, constructing homes on steep hillsides without government support or formal planning. Its isolation and poverty made it vulnerable to armed groups who established control in the 1980s and 90s.
FARC guerrillas, ELN, and later paramilitary groups battle for territorial control. Residents live under gang rule with strict curfews and arbitrary violence.
Operation Orion: Military offensive involving 3,000 troops. Official deaths: 75. Community estimates much higher. Paramilitaries take control post-operation.
Demobilization of paramilitary groups leaves power vacuum. Some violence continues from criminal gangs, but intensity decreases.
Outdoor escalators inaugurated, transforming mobility and signaling government investment in the community.
Street art movement flourishes. Tours begin. Hip-hop and cultural projects engage youth. Tourism becomes economic driver.
The Outdoor Escalators
Six covered escalators rise through the heart of Comuna 13, replacing a grueling 35-minute climb with a 6-minute ride. They're free to use, open 6am to 8pm, and have become both practical infrastructure and tourist attraction. For elderly residents and parents with children, they're life-changing. For the world, they're a symbol of how cities can invest in marginalized communities.
Street Art as Healing
Colorful murals blanket Comuna 13's walls, telling stories of violence, survival, memory, and hope. Local artists transformed the neighborhood's image while processing collective trauma. Michael Jackson dances across one wall. Images of children's faces memorialize the disappeared. Abstract patterns burst with color and life.
The art serves multiple purposes: beautification, storytelling, economic opportunity (tourists pay for guided tours), and community identity. Former gang members have become artists. Hip-hop, breakdancing, and graffiti give youth alternatives to violence. The neighborhood that was once defined by its darkness has chosen to define itself through creativity.
Visiting Today
Tourism has transformed Comuna 13's economy. Dozens of tour companies operate daily, most led by local guides who lived through the violence. T-shirt shops, juice stands, and souvenir vendors line the escalator route. Hip-hop performances happen at designated viewpoints. It's commercialized, yes—but the money stays in the community.
Tour Recommendations
Book with local guides: Choose tours operated by community members, not outside agencies. The stories are more authentic, and more money reaches residents.
Time your visit: Mornings are less crowded. Avoid staying past dark—some areas remain less safe at night.
Respect residents: This is a living neighborhood, not a theme park. Ask before photographing individuals. Stay with your group on designated routes.
The Ongoing Story
Comuna 13's transformation is real but incomplete. Poverty remains. Some gang activity continues in areas away from tourist routes. Gentrification pressures are displacing some original residents. The community debates how to balance economic opportunity with maintaining authenticity.
But the arc is undeniable: from a place where residents feared leaving their homes to a neighborhood that welcomes thousands of visitors daily; from a community the government abandoned to one that symbolizes what public investment can achieve; from a story of violence to one of resilience, creativity, and hope. Comuna 13's metamorphosis offers lessons for marginalized communities everywhere.